Garment-pattern-designing scroll and square



Jan.` 12 1926.

. H. DOHERTY ET 'AL GARMENT PATTERN DESIGNING scRoLL AND SQUARE -Filed D60. 28, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 lzo 19m u la MHHLMLLHLLMLLLLLM nventoug MCM Jan. 12 1926. 1,569,726 H. DOHERTY ET Al.

GARMENT PATTERN DES.IGNING SCROLL AND SQUARE Filed Dec. 28, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 12, 1926.

uNirEn'' srares HELEN DOHEETY AND JosEPHINE LE BLAUC, 0E rEovrDENcE, :RHODE ISLAND.

`eaiuvIEN'r-rA'r'rEEN-DEsreNING soEoLL AND SQUARE.`

Application fiiea December 28,1923. .senat No. 683,229.

To/@ZZ whom t may concern:

ABe it known that we, HELEN DOHERTY` such as are usually delineated on paper from measurements taken from an individual.

. Theobject of the invention is to provide a pattern delineating scroll or curve and a complemental square, by the use of which patterns maybe accurately producedl from individual measurements.

The object of the invention isalso to pro'- vide a garment drafting` scroll, the perimeter or marginal curves thereof being evolved from lines of the human figure, particularly ofthose parts of the body including the neck, shoulders, junction of the armswith the trunk, tlie bust and hip curves,the several lines of the scroll being assembled in'proper relation to provide a laying olf curvilinear or translating rulefor use in delineating a paitern from and in accord withy measurements taken from an individual.

further'objectl of thevinvention is to provide a garment pattern scroll which is' made up offour main marginal curves with ineasuretliereon which together provide siX laying ott'. curves, specifically a shoulder sec` l tionn a f combined hip and bust. section, an

varmhole section, a neck section and a sleeve section, the combinedsections of the scroll having three angles or corners, and a reentering angleV orf recess, the sections between the angles being graduated and indicatedon one side by numbers, the opposite side of the scrollbeing graduatedand indicated vby letters in duplicatelocated adjacent to alter` nate lines or graduations. I

En further object of the invention is to provide a garment makers scroll -of such character andfoutline that patterns may be laid oil or `delineated therefrom to accord with measurements takenfrom individuals `with the usual tape measure, and in delineating the `pattern or onehalf thereof, the scroll is used in conjunction with a square used to draw on the pattern lines or marks which are hereinafter designated as building lines.y The scroll or curveis nominated as a J-curve and is a combination of cer-y tain curves for use in producing patterns for garments, irrespectiveof the size and ligure of the'individual andin accord with measurements taken with a tape measure. v

`With 'the foregoingv and fother objectsz in view, the invention consists in the Ldetails '0f construction, and vin the arrangement' and combination of parts to be hereinafter" more fully set-forth yand claimed. 1 l In describing the invention 'in detail, ref-g erencey will be lhad to vthe accompanying drawings forming parti of this application lwherein like characters denote corresponding parts in the `several views, and in Winch-4 i v f "l Figure'l. illustrates one side of the curve; Figure 2 illustrates the reverse sideoof vthe curve; Y, g L Figure 3 illustrates oneside ofthe tailor scpiare;v 1 l' i Figure 4' illustrates the reverse side ofthe tailor square; i i y f 'F ig. 5 illustrates a patternfora two pieceV waist; and 1 Fig. 6 illustrates a'pattern of a two piece sleeve'. L 'Y v, l

ln these drawings, Figure '1 shows one side of the "pattern curve which measures diagonal from A to'B,"1S1/2` inches,thisv length beingt vmade vp'ur'poscly yto have each( letters Ybeing v2` inches apart, the. double 'letters being used'to distinguish thevcurves of the scroll from the building lines which',

are marked byf single letters. Thelong edge ortmargin of off on the pat-tern, theliip andfbust measureT ments, the ends of the curves adjoining the shoulder and the arinhole sections of the they scrollv from= A to B is recomposition of a slight concave curve and a large convex curve forlaying scroll. The part of the scroll from A to C is intended Jfor the hip curve, from C to B for the bust curve, these tWo curves being also used in participation for very pronounced hip and bust curves, one of the doubleletters of said curves heilig used in laying oil the pattern. The part of the scroll from A to D represents the curve which adjoins the sleeve and hip curves and is for use for the shoulder line of thepattern of any size; D to E a compoundcurve adjoining shoulder and armhole curves which is used for sleeves, the same adjoining curve lromE to F being used for back neck ot pattern; Eto B adjoining convex curve is usedfor front armhole' oit' pattern, and adjoining neck and bust curve is used from E to G 'for front of neck 'of the pattern.

Figure 2 shows the reverse side of the scroll and on this side all adjoining curves are numbered for two purposes, one to measure the curvesmade onthe pattern and the other to distinguish clearly from the reverse scroll which has its gage lines alternately indicated bydouble letters AA to ZZ. In Figure 2, each adjoining curve has an indicating name marked thereunder to save time in locating said curves,` in English and French. The scroll on its side that is lettered and spacedwstarts at thefangle B, the lettering continui-ng to the angle A, and trom thence to D, from D to the entering angle E, and from E toB, joining-B at an acute angle. On this side of the scroll double lettering 4is used for convenience in laying ott' a pattern, as single letters arc used thereon to indicate pattern lines and numbers for building lines.

The sections of the scroll are laid off as to' measurements substantially as follows: From A2 to B2 includes hip and bust measures totalingl inches; from E2 to B2, 11 inches, armliole measure; from E2 to D2, 10 inches, for neck and sleeve measurements, and from D2 to A2 7 inches for shoulder measurements. The length of the several margins of the scroll totals -52 inches. The spacing on the opposite side of the scroll is in inches and the indicating marks are in inches, and the lettering is applied to aline with each alternate mark, the entirev alphabet et tWenty-siX letters being used. Each number begins at each adjoiningcurve to facilitate measuring curves, A2 to B2 compound and adjoining curve, measures 24 inches; A2 to C2 in use for hip curves of the pat tern; C2 to B2 in use for the bust curve ot the pattern; A2 to D2 in use for the shoulder of the pattern and measures 7 inches; D2 to E2 compound curve in use for the sleeve of the pattern, measuring 10 inches, and the said curve is also used from E2 to F2 for the backv neck of the pattern.

.Each 'adjoining curve on the same side is `and millimetres. A2`to D2, shoulder curve,

measures 18 centimetres. D2 to E2, sleeve curve, measures 10 centimetres and 3 millimetres. E2 to B2, armhole, measures 28 centimetres and 5 millimetres. E2Vto F2, used for the back of neck, measures 10 centi.

metres and 2 millimetres. E2 to G2, used for liront of neck, measures 18 centimetres. At the adjoining of the neck and armhole curves, 1 centimetre is `divided into 10 millimetres to show the; division of centimetres and it is not repeated to avoid confusion with the inches.

The tailor squarehas `a long and a short arm, the longarm being 21 inches and-the short `arm being 9 inches. `One side (Fig. l), has `its long. arm dividedby lines into half inches, .the inches heilig marked, the sli-ort arm ot said side having the inches divided into quarters, and marked.

The reverse side (Fig. l) hasits long arm divided into scales of thirds and sixthis, the former being onthe outer edge of said side and the latter being above ,thelformerz` Each scale is marked as shown. .The short arm of the reverse side is .divided into *scalesiof eightlis and itourths,A i the former being marked on the outer edge otI the short arm and the latter being marked `above the former, each scale with its indicating name. being marked with an arrow, andtheinches being' marked on the inner edge `of said short arm. v

To `make the building lines of the pattern when the metric system is employed, `an ordinary metre is used wherein centimetres and millimetres -instead of scales form, the basisiof calculation. Centimetres and milli-` inetrescit `marked on the tailor square will comprise the scales of the inchesv and make itralmost impossible tod-istinguish the difi'erence. i

To lay olii' or draft a plaintwo piece WaistV pattern, as shown byfFig. '5, apieceof: paper of appropriate size to draft thereon one-half of the Waist pattern is laid upon atable; `,by using square,line l, the Vlength of'back seam plus one-half an inclu isdraWm-the halffinch added lbeing providedor hems.

The cor-4 ner of the square .is next placed 5 inches measure up from line 2 along theV longarm of squarethe under arm length 9 andindi Late by point. The ycorner of the square is placed at this point with itsshort arm resting on top of line l, and the bust line, which is one half of the bust measure, plus'y 11/2 inches, for turning under, .is drawnvand point B is placed at end of line; on this bust line 3j, a few points asB, C, AD are located and made. Fromthe corner of the square uhile on line 3, there is measured upward one half of the width of the back, plus l@ of an inch, at which point C is placed. The neck line 4; is next made. From D the under arm point locate C and put corner of square with short arm resting on line 3 and make line 5and with the corner of square at top of line 5 measure down one-eighth of armhole measure, and place E at the terminal of measurement.

For the next plotting, the square is placed at top of line l, the long arm resting on line 4, laying oft one-sixth of neck and marking F at point. To form the neck curve, TT on 'scroll is placed at F and when that portion ot scroll touches A, the curved line is made. For the shoulder curve, the corner of the scroll is placed at F and E drawn, the line being extended 1/4 of an inch to provide for folding.

The square'may be next placed with its corner on the line 3 with its long arm on line l, and a measure ismade and marked, he corner of the square being moved thereto so that its long` arm will be at the end of back shoulder and draw lline 6 which gives front shoulder line, a point G being indi-.

cated on draft, and on this line 6 is located Il, the end of front shoulder line from H to (lr being the length of the shoulder seam, to

curve the shoulder line the scroll from A2 to D2 is used.

The corner of the square is neXt placed the same distance above H, as there is between the back shoulder line E, F to line 5, and front line 7 is drawn to point I. For neck, square is placed at point 7 and measure is made, J being put at termination. The square is now placed below the point J, and line 8 is made, said line being` one hall:l of

. chest measure, plus l@ of an inch, more or less, for turningI under. To produce curve of neck, place the scroll so curvewill touch points J and H.

To produce the rear curve of arm hole, thearm hole curve of scroll is -placed to touch line 5 and point E, end of shoulder line, the balance of the arm hole portion of the scroll touches liney 8, the chest line and ends at point G.

For the waist line, the square is put on point D with short arm on bust line 3 and vertical line 9 is drawn, the points K and L are located and converging dart lines are drawn therefrom to D. The scroll is used wrist measure above G.

betweenA theseV points to give curvatureto lines1-L`-.D and K-D, andlinally the hip portionrof the scrollris usedvtomake lthe curve 'I vto L. Y,

What 'are known as the building lines areV numbered andare laid off` .from the ksquare with scales used to locate the points, and thev pattern lines are lettered to indicate' thatV 'and line l, the under arm line is drawn.

Midway between upper edge of paper and parallel with line l is located line 2, and point B being placed at half the arm hole measurement, plus 1/2 an inch, and midway on this line, the point C is located, and from CVr is drawn line 3, the top of sleeve line.

The corner of the square is now placed Vat B and line 4 is made, which line is the length of sleeve from top to elbow, plus l inch, and at end of line 4t, line 5`is made, said line eX- tending to bottom edge of the paper. With the shortk arm of the square on line 5, locate and place point D, and measure upward onehalf the wrist measure, plus 1 inch and mark E. Now place the square at point D land E and make a line two-thirds of the wrist measure and indicated by F; also place G onehalf an inch above D, and H at one-third the On line 4 measure from B the length of sleeve from top to elbow and draw line 6, the elbow line, then measure up on line 6,711/2 inches from the edge of the paper, and place I. From point I, measure on line 6 the distance from A to C and place J, which is connected by a diagonal line with point C, also connect point I with A, and I with G. Points H and J are connected by the scroll, placing the corner at junction of hip and shoulder curves, and line moved with its point at F to junction of lines 4 and 6.

For the top of the sleeve curve, the corner D of the scroll is placed at outer end of line 3, to join point B, and to make back curve the corner D of scroll is placed at 3 and joins point A, and to make front curve the entering'angle E is placed at point A and extends to point C.

In making this pattern it is requisite that the under piece of the sleeve be traced on another piece of paper, to produce ak duplicate, the tracing or copy having lines from points AtoC'; Cto J; JtoH; Hto D; Dto'I and from I to A.

We claim:

1. A one-piece or unit scroll for-laying off dress patterns, the scroll having a marginV gles, one of said anglesbeing a reentering langle, such lreenteringangle being located opposite the longestsicle of the scroll.

2. A scroll Inacle up of a reversible unit `comprising four diil'erently curved sections for use in laying o from previously. taken measures of a, person the shoulder; hip, hust, arinholeancl neck outlines of a garment 'efolveclzfromthe scrolllsaid scroll having three `corners and a reentering angle between which arefour graduated sections of differj ent curvaturcs, said scroll havingits lopposite faces `graduated and marked by duplicate diameters,` the successive graduations on one face being `in register With alternate graduations on the other face.

J OSEPHINE LEBLAUC. 

